I had come to the tricky point in the process of making the table and chairs where I had spray painted the metal frame white and everything needed gluing together. I began with the base of the table. I started with a dry assemble to make sure everything fitted together which it inevitably didn’t and it needed some sanding to adjust the angles so they were more accurate. Even after spending a large amount of time trying to get it all to fit everything together there were still a few gaps which I just had to deal with! The only way of holding the awkward angles of pyramid shape was using lots of masking tape! I used Gorilla glue for supreme strength and also so the wood would bond to the metal frame.
The following day I rigorously sanded down the table top and make sure it fitted to the metal frame of the table well. The metal frame of the table top had warped a bit so the whole thing need clamping. I used a No More Nails glue for joining wood to metal and clamped the table to the metal frame as well as using weights to make sure the frame was touching the wood in all the places. I then allowed this to dry for 48 hours, to be extra sure it would stick.
Gluing the wood into the chair was a bit more straightforward. The only problem that I faced was that the wood for the back of the chair had warped. The first time I glued it to the frame it failed and the glue didn’t bond properly to the metal. I decided I hadn’t use enough glue sand hand had a good enough clamping technique. So I repeated the process with extra clamps and extra glue which worked fine!
I also had my light that I needed to sort out. I had woodturned the wood section and I needed to throw the ceramic disk out of porcelain was a lot harder than I thought it would be! It took me many attempts before I had a correctly shaped and sized disc that I was pleased with. It was also very tricky to get the measurements right because of how much porcelain shrinks in the kiln (usually 20%). Due to lack of time I decided to just hight fire the porcelain without glazing. I made more than one just incase they went wrong, but unfortunate they both went wrong! Both were too big and both warped in the kiln. This was not helped by the fact that the kiln shelf itself warped during firing due to an incorrectly loaded kiln.
So I needed to find a alternative. I realised it could be really nice to match my acrylic and wood pyramid light and make an acrylic disk instead of the ceramic disk. This way the light would also come through the bottom really nicely. I was then faced with the question of how I was going to make it. I decided to faceplate on the acrylic and mount the disc on to the lath. I then used a rough grade of sandpaper (P40) to sand down the acrylic to the desired shape. This took a long time but did eventually work. Unfortunately I was left with screw holes from the faceplate which I am still unsure how I will conceal, but the disc work really well with the light and lit up really well, contrasting nicely with the wood. I joined the layers with Tensol 12 and the wired the cable and bulb into the light.
I had bought some really nice Italian braided fabric cable to give the light a professional and high quality feel to it which I went about wiring into my bulb. I had chosen to use a GU10 LED build which wires straight into the mains making the wiring very easy and cheap. Being an a LED bulb it last for a long time, using little power and giving out little heat.
I also finished my little pyramid light off, installing a single LED connected to a coin cell in the bottom.
From here I need to attach the acrylic to the wood of the light and find a good way of concealing the holes in the acrylic. It would be also good if I could find a way of attaching the acrylic so that one can change the bulb if necessary but I don’t know if I will have the time for this at this stage.